breguet has succeeded in designing a time piece that is embraced hundreds of years of heritage while also working well aesthetically and technically in the 21st century. Now the Breguet Tradition 7097 Automatique Seconde Rétrograde is a proof of that craftsmanship.
Breguet, being the master he was, had crafted incredibly beautiful timepieces but in watch enthusiast circles, perhaps he is even more respected for his technical achievements. The centerpiece of all Tradition pieces is of course the inside-out layout, wherein nearly all essential components of the movement are visible on the dial side. Specifically, on display are the mainspring barrel (in the very center), the bridges and wheels of the going train (running on the periphery from 9 to 5 o’clock), as well as of course the large balance wheel with the Breguet-curve spring.
The first among the two interesting additions the Breguet Tradition 7097 Automatique Seconde Rétrograde brings is the retrograde seconds hand, a design element that provides a lovely visual treat every minute, as the traditional blued hand snaps back to zero right after it reaches the 60 second mark of a circular grained, arch-shaped scale. The scale intersects the main dial, which is off-set at twelve o’clock and decorated with a traditional hobnail guilloché pattern (commonly seen on many of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s watches), all applied by hand and made complete with deeply engraved, black Roman numerals.
Even with so much going on, this dial retains excellent legibility due to the subtle finish of the plates, the limitation of color (the plates are a full-bodied anthracite, and the dials are in silvered gold), and the enormous, domed sapphire crystal that offers a multi-angled view of the components.
In addition to the retrograde seconds hand, the other main advancement with the Breguet Tradition 7097 Automatique Seconde Rétrograde in comparison to the 7047 is the inclusion of automatic winding. As yet, no images of the case back have been published, but regardless of its styling, its presence elevates the functionality of this model to a level untouched by its predecessors. Even without the auto-weight influence, the watch boasts a 50 hour power reserve, which is more than adequate for such dressy piece. All this technical complexity is made complete by a unique finishing that, although is not unique to Breguet, is seldom seen even on high-end watches.
Although the case back is, for now, a mystery, what we can see of the case – available in either 18k white or rose gold – is reason to rejoice. Breguet has stuck with the traditional case-edge fluting so associated with their history, and chosen welded lugs that hark to the days before CNC machining enabled single-piece case middles to be produced with relative ease. The shape of the lugs is sleek and unobtrusive and the fixing points are expertly finished to give no clue of how they cling to the case. Although a minor detail, I am a big fan of the screw-bar that holds the leather strap in place – a far classier touch than a soulless spring-bar.
externe bron door : Equwatch.com