One of the USA’s underdogs and Europe’s most respected brands is Louis Erard. Louis Erard watches offer some welcome originality and design refinement, as well as prices that make you feel as though at least a few people in the pricing departments at the Swiss watch brands are sane.
The Louis Erard watch (reference 54 230 AA 02) is a dress-style watch in steel with a black lacquer dial that is also joined in the collection by a similar version with a matte black-coated case (54 230 NN 32) and a more classic-looking model with a white face (54 230 AA 01). This is part of the Louis Erard Excellence Regulator collection and should not be confused with the similar 50 232 AA 02 model that is essentially the same, but without the handy power reserve indicator.
Nothing about the case or dial design of the Louis Erard Excellence Regulator Power Reserve is particularly sophisticated or complex to produce, but everything is done nicely for what it is. This is also a rather handsome “alternative” tuxedo watch given its unusual dial design yet utter minimalism. Legibility, of course, is on the better side thanks to the black dial matched with high-contrast white hands and markers.
Design-wise, the Louis Erard Excellence Regulator Power Reserve’s dial is a mishmash of elements taken from traditional (the Roman Numerals) to Bauhaus – and a lot in between. Parts of the face are trying to look like an old-school enamel dial, and other parts are trying to be sporty (the seconds subdial). I would say that the “fashionable” integration is for the most part successful, although I can see how some watch lovers might find the lack of total design cohesion irritating. There isn’t any lume on the dial, which, although not expected, would have been a nice touch.
At 40mm wide in steel, the Louis Erard Excellence Regulator Power Reserve watch wears pretty much at the size you’d expect. The lugs curve down a bit and add a classic element to the otherwise clean and relatively thin case which is also water resistant to 50 meters. A sapphire crystal (that could use a bit more anti-reflective coating) sits over the dial while the caseback, nicely engraved in relief, has the Louis Erard logo on it (even if the design of the caseback isn’t super exciting). Attached to the case is a black alligator-print leather strap with a folding and locking deployant. Nothing super fancy, but it gets the job done well.
Inside the watch is a modified base ETA 7001 Peseux manually wound mechanical movement. The 7001 Peseux-based movement has been around for a long time and is appreciated for its simplicity and accuracy. It is also an extremely thin mechanical movement. The 7001 RE9 (which is in this watch) is a special version with a regulator and power reserve module which transforms the otherwise standard layout. Operating at 3Hz (21,600bph), the movement has about two days of power reserve.
externe bron door : Equwatch.com/ pics: A Blog To Watch